RAZOR CLAM CHOWDER

Pacific razor clams, as a big as hash browns, are a completely different animal from skinny Atlantic razor clams, which look like switchblades and lurk around Spanish wine bars. Each Pacific razor yields a 2-3 ounce steak that’s somewhere between squid and geoduck in flavor. Harvesting them is a rite along the coast of the Pacific Northwest.

They’re also a delicacy that’s notoriously sensitive to overcooking. It’s important to wait until the final moments to add them to this chowder: they need just enough heat to cook through and no more. Another key to success here (and with chowders in general) is not to let the soup come to a boil once the cream or milk is added, which risks curdling. Gentle cooking is the goal.

Potato is the traditional chowder starch in New England, where clam chowder gained most of its fame after originating in France. Sassier root vegetables would be excellent as well (parsnip or celery root, for example). Try garnishing the chowder with crumbled gim, the Korean name for pulped paper sheets of the seaweed porphyra. On a cellular level, gim is identical to Japanese nori. It often comes roasted and seasoned, sold as a snack. Come to think of it, potato chips wouldn’t make a bad garnish either.

Seattle chef, author and educator Becky Selengut and her clam gun.

Source: Serious Eats (“Pacific Razor Clams: How to Catch, Clean, and Cook Them”): August 10, 2018.

• The basic idea

  Cook diced onions, celery, and bacon in butter until the onions and celery are translucent and collapsing (do not brown). Add bay leaves, thyme or rosemary, and smoked paprika and cook to awaken the spices. Deglaze with dry cider, pale beer, or white wine. Add potatoes and clam juice (plus a little water to cover) and simmer until the potato is very tender.

  Add the cream and cook at the barest simmer for a few minutes to blend the flavors, watching carefully so it doesn’t boil. Remove from heat, add chopped razor clams, and cover until they are cooked through (1-2 minutes).

  Crumble roasted seasoned seaweed (a.k.a. gim) on top before serving.

• Ingredient list

  Serves 4 (leftovers keep in fridge; reheat them gently)

  Takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour from start to finish

  • 2 tablespoons butter

  • 1 large yellow onion, diced, or 2 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), diced

  • 2 stalks celery, diced

  • 4 ounces bacon (about 2-3 strips), cut into bite-sized pieces

  • 2 bay leaves

  • 1 tablespoon fresh thyme or rosemary leaves, chopped

  • 1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika

  • 1/2 cup (4 ounces) dry cider, pale beer or white wine

  • 2 large or several small (about 12-16 ounces total) potatoes of any variety, diced (if you dice them in advance, keep them in water to prevent browning)

  • 2 cups (16 ounces) clam juice

  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream

  • Optional: 8-12 yearling or extra small shucked oysters

  • 1/2 pound razor clam meat (or more if desired), chopped into bite-sized pieces (top-quality razor clams harvested by the Quinault tribe along are available through Hama Hama Oysters)

  • kosher salt and pepper to taste

• Steps

  1. In a large pot or dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons butter until the foam subsides.

  2. Add 1 large onion (diced) or 2 large leeks (white and light green parts only; sliced), 2 stalks celery (diced) and 4 ounces bacon (2-3 strips, cut into bite-sized pieces), along with a large pinch of kosher salt. Cook over medium heat until the onion is soft and translucent; do not let it brown.

  3. Add 2 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme or rosemary and 1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika. Cook for a few minutes until fragrant.

  4. Add 1/2 cup dry cider, pale beer, or white wine and bring to a boil. Cook for one minute to remove the alcohol.

  5. Add 2 large potatoes (scrubbed and diced, peeling is optional) and 2 cups of clam juice, plus extra water if necessary to cover the potatoes. Increase the heat and bring to a simmer.

  6. Cook, covered, until the potatoes are tender (test one with a fork).

  7. Lower the heat and add 1 1/2 cups heavy cream. Simmer for about 5 minutes, uncovered, so the cream and starches mingle. Taste for seasoning and add salt if needed.

  8. If using the optional 8-12 extra small oysters, add them now and cook on low for 1 minute, until just opaque.

  9. Turn off the heat and stir in 1/2 pound (or more) chopped razor clams. Cover immediately and let them bathe in the heat for 1-2 minutes, until just cooked through.

  10. Serve right away, with plenty of freshly ground black pepper and a garnish of crumbled gim.